NEW YORK FALL WINTER 2020 BULLETIN
Is New York Fashion Week still relevant?
This season, many designers abandoned the CFDA calendar: Tom Ford moved his show to Los Angeles because of the coincidence between the fashion event and the Oscars, while brands such as Ralph Lauren, Mara Hoffman, Batsheva, Tanya Taylor and others have completely resigned to a fashion show. However, Rodarte returned to the agenda after a break, while other brands such as Coach, Eckhaus Latta and Collina Strada turned their shows into concerts. It's hard to keep track of who is doing what and while fashion shows can be fruitful for publishers, buyers and influencers, this system is no longer sustainable in every way, and it's only a matter of time before it burn it completely.
As long as we don't get the magic potion, we still expect designers to reinvent themselves every six months, something quite unrealistic. In fact, it is not unrealistic, it is irresponsible. The constant flow of the new, the new and the new is the most problematic contribution of fashion, both for the environment and for people, but although the detoxification of fashion seems too long a process, if we observe the great figure, forces from all over the world are aligning to generate this much desired change in an industry as beautiful and inspiring as fashion.
Check out here the proposals that some of our favorite designers have showcased this AW20 season:
As a symbol of US-made fashion, Marc Jacobs organized a full-color mega-celebration in a freestyle show reminiscent of the '60s. Inspired by his heroes of the past and present in the style of various stages, ages and times, Jacobs emphasized moderation, fabric quality and proportion, valuing simplicity and timelessness without giving up the celebration of individuality, variety and character.
Like many New York designers, Phillip Lim has been rethinking his place in the fashion system. After reexamining its production line, Lim now produces 50% of the collection with sustainable fabrics and seeks a work space outside the traditional system that allows it to remain inspired. With that in mind, Lim made the decision to change from the traditional catwalk parade to a more intimate open-door format, returning to its roots as a retail seller, seeking that connectivity with fashion that seems to be well hidden.
Linder opens New York Fashion Week with his particular kind of aesthetic that cultivates a specific form of intriguing strangeness, fusing urban bohemian vibes with a dreamy, romantic drift. It is indeed this kind of refreshing, gender-flowing style, sometimes with intense personal, emotional and intellectual energy, that has made the brand stand out on the American scene.
This first collection of the first global fashion brand from Elite Model World, E1972, celebrated New York, its graffiti, its lights and its diversity but the most striking thing was its manifestation as a brand outside the usual lifestyle and sportswear market, as it has a completely new approach that embraces the philosophy of our times. With a new body-scanning technology that allows the customer to scan the body from home and send it to a workshop where it will be made in a period of time between 4 and 6 weeks, E1972 aims to democratize fashion, revolutionize the shopping format and eradicate the rules of size by focusing on each different body shape.The customized approach will limit the production of garments that will not be used, making only what the customer asks for.
Coach's collection was filled with references to New York's pop culture and street art. The city is the inspiration of Stuart Vevers, the firm's creative director, who presented a ready-to-wear line and its super-functional and urban accessories.
In a game of word association, Theory would be followed by suit within about one second. The New York brand has long been known for its elevated, minimalist office uniforms, and as such, it’s mostly considered in the context of daywear but for the first time in its history, the brand went coed, offering approachable everyday essentials for men and women.
The second skin is a concept that designer Rui Zhou has explored since her first flashes of interest in the fashion world. Expanding on her vision, Zhou has wanted to convey a truly feminine experience and feeling, deciding to highlight stockings as a special guest in her collection, twisting and narrowing them around bodies, providing a cunning tension that we hope will put this emerging talent officially on the map.
A second-hand market in Accra, Ghana - the largest in Africa with 15 million items of "donated" clothing each week - is where most of the discarded threads of Hillary Tamar and her Collina Strada brand end up, who went there to collect the material with which she would create the "Garden Ho" AW20 collection. A gesture no other designer could do so brilliantly.
The signature of the Mulleavy sisters, and their return to New York after a couple of seasons of absence was big, with a fall-winter 2020 collection that pays tribute to haute couture, in its most glamorous and dramatic version, which illustrated how fabulous New York Fashion Week could feel.
Maintaining an aesthetic blend of sophisticated subversion, portability and effortlessly cold factor, Peter Do balanced a refined hand with a bold image of fuchsia and scrap images in a collection inspired by car interiors that contained an underlying nostalgic emotion.
The big news of the Eckhaus Latta show was that the brand partnered with the resale site The RealReal to get shoes for the runway. A small but big step in the race for sustainability.
Area used their show as a platform to announce their partnership with Central Africa. Delighting us with some of the African techniques shown in their designs, Area expressed their intention to transform cultural understanding of Africa through art, business and politics, while at the same time highlighting the influence of people of African descent in the world.
Known for its experimental construction techniques, Lee takes a minimalist meets maximalist approach to fashion, an aesthetic that has been lauded by the industry. The collection was a successful evolution of the designer’s affinity for ‘90s minimalism, showcasing pieces we are sure to see on fashion fans and celebrities alike with integrated jewelry and lingerie details.
When Vera Wang decides to play with color and printing, it is an occasion, a new game for the brand. Trying to rescue the fantasy of youth, Wang lets in the light this season.
It may not be time to abandon the current fashion system altogether, but it may be time to redefine the point and the process of it. How? By making sustainability a priority with a processable plan that holds the industry accountable. It is time that we consider the mental and physical cost that the event has in our environment and our bodies.
With this in mind, brands could follow the example of Vaquera, CDLM / Creatures of The Wind, and Section 8, who made a show of three together last season. Or take a note from Phillip Lim, who, instead of a show or runway presentation, organized events at their venues, open to anyone. The possibilities are endless, and although we don't have all the solutions, we know it's time for a change and we optimistically think is already happening.
Stay tuned and don't miss the most influential developments and innovations in the fashion world every season!