The encounter between tailoring and sportswear, how to capture the attention of the young generation of consumers, what the new masculinity is like, sustainability and how the world will evolve in the coming decades shaped this Italian autumn and winter season.
Dazzled by the quality of the fabrics and the tailoring technique appreciated by both young and timeless talents, here you'll find a selection of our favorite shows;
Tailoring and reflective fabrics elevated the brand’s signature sportswear aesthetic. Japanese designer Hiroyuki Fujita injected sartorial elements into its signature retro-athletic aesthetic.
MARCO DE VINCENZO
He balances the excesses of his women’s collections with his distinctive touch of delicacy, motivated by the challenge of evolving men’s fashion which, based on fashion history, has far more taboos and limits than women’s fashion, infusing his flair for Italian cultural references with fine tailoring and hints of sportswear.
Eye-catching prints, asymmetric shapes and different fabrics created a striking and attractive effect on Marni's fall winter collection. Though a bit out of tune with the outside world, we like the idea of man's incomprehension defined by Marni.
Neil Barrett continued his fascination with the evolution of the masculine dress by reinforcing this contrast between elegance and activewear and creating a conversation between the handmade and the industrial.
DOLCE AND GABANNA
Now that the public is increasingly informed and demands more honesty and transparency from each garment and each brand, Dolce & Gabbana's coup de grace is also a strategic move where the fabric defends itself. In this collection, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana renounced cosmopolitanism and the shocking prints they usually practice by offering mind-blowing materials.
Playing with dimension and geometries, PRADA is inspired by the basis of the classic - which refers to everything that lasts and has a meaning - but directed towards a modern young man who loves to be adequate in a contemporary way.
The British sportswear brand A-Cold-Wall was the guest designer at this year's Men's Fashion Week, thanks to the collaboration between Camera Moda and the British Fashion Council. For the first time, Samuel Ross introduces tailoring, giving the brand a maturity it lacked before, leading a generation of new craftsmen and intellectuals.
Knowledge about how to work with textiles and constructions makes the difference for Giorgio Armani. The designer aims with its exceptional endings, to push the younger generation to understand the meaning of craftsmanship and materials, with the intention of improving the environment and making minds aware of what to buy by valuing it as an investment.
Independence and individuality. Two words that describe the appearance of Magliano on the Milanese catwalks where most firms keep traditional masculinity at bay with little touches of experimentation. A refreshing contribution to the show that, despite not being in line with what's expected from Milan during fashion week, creates a balance between the conventional and the extravagant in a distinctive way.
Form and function were magnificently combined in this Missoni collection, easily recognizable by its distinctive pattern and color scheme. The brand was inspired by the avant-garde shade under which the funky vibrations of the seventies and eighties danced in the jazz clubs.
As a counter-attack to the streetwear craze, Fendi has re-evaluated his identity and decided to take a different path, conceiving a very consistent concept for the proposal that became the collection every man wants. Everything you've ever had hanging in your closet has been brought back by Fendi like wool suits, sherpa jackets, coats, puffer jackets and lots of leather.
Gucci rescues romance from one of life’s most beautiful stages, childhood. This season, Alessandro Michele and his team have analyzed the patriarchal mentality under which children are raised, which generates an oppressive virility that, as a consequence, feeds sexism and abuse, not only against women but in general, saying that today’s values are a bit old-fashioned.
His suggestion is to restore our attitudes by returning to childhood, rediscovering and maintaining the innocence of the virgin mind of a baby. Alessandro Michele always gives meaning to his shows and projects, but this season the statement was notably strong.
Imagine a civilization in which men and women deliberately share their garments. This would be the exaggerated recreation of the mixed collection of Miaoran where there is a subliminal and poetic message that challenges gender norms for dressing the postmodern individual.
After a gloomy period during the past year, Sunnei designers were highly influenced by this tension, presenting a playful aesthetic that gave way to a more mature collection that kept the brand's codes in tune with a more real man and woman.
This season we have seen a new facet of MSGM that is evolving after ten years. In the form of an introspection of the designer's dark side, together with film director Dario Argento, who specializes in horror films, the collection - maintaining an optimistic energy despite the scary winks - is inspired by the artist's masterpieces.
Everything in this collection screams iconic. The glasses and the mulle along with elegant and colorful satin suits, add a touch of partying to this season. Tom Ford - the man and the brand - has never bothered to play it safe and rightly so, when he produces clothes as stunning as these.
Inspired by landscapes of northern Britain, art nouveau and craftsmanship, McQueen offers something that is sometimes earthy and elemental, sometimes the ultimate in refinement. Inspired by the textures of the earth, McQueen points to the brave man of honour, versed in his appreciation of nature and his affinity for sober elegance. Exceptional.
Stay posted to keep an eye on the trends and currents that the fashion world is going through in this new decade and don't miss out on any of the essentials. See you in Paris!
London is the base for new talent and, as such, it can go unnoticed if one judges the early initiation of young designers in a world as competitive as that of fashion, thus often underestimating that really good talent.
Without losing sight of the novelties offered by some of the city's most outstanding fashion creators and the influence of the rise of Asian students in the capital, we bring you a compilation of our favorite moments from this 15th edition, where oriental aesthetics converge with the European style.
Inspired by the Korean War and the extreme moments that occurred during it, Munn combines with beauty, heart and sensitivity an emotional feat composed of pieces that maintain just the right balance towards sustainability. He incorporated ties and scarves made of leftover cloth; bags made of old tires and recycled denim to create some of his pieces, giving it, of course, a Korean oriental touch, retaining the brand’s distinctive elegance.
Balenciaga’s former men’s clothing student, Martine Rose has always been the most conventionally characteristic character of the London men’s fashion calendar. However, her latest collection is a continuation of what we have come to expect from her so far. Informal, but refined and demure, retaining an avant-garde style, the designer at this point may need to develop something extra. A little less informal, a little more risk.
Fun and polished, Nicholas Daley’s style at the time of design is solidifying and becoming instantly recognizable, which already only that feat accomplished in a few seasons, is worth highlighting in a place where similar aesthetics abound. He continuously explores its dual ethnic heritage, of Jamaican and Scottish descent: questioning widely and reflecting the notion of multiculturalism within British identity.
Between history and futurism, managed in a more classical way, Pronounce kept the focus on a range of spectacular outerwear. Making use of ingenious applications in terms of proportion and detail, Yushan Li and Jun Zhou created sublime pieces covered in lush prints.
The rising star Yi-Ling Kuo of 1x1 presented a collection that spliced the subversive fetish with cozy comfort and avoided. The layers concealed the harnesses of the gladiators, slavery jackets were displayed next to gleaming metallic fabrics and there was a great inspiration in sadomasochistic fetishism from what we could observe in the details of his creations.
Exploring global cultural references and aspects of material culture, Crutchley is to this point, an expert creating garments that explore the limits of shape, silhouette and surface, with special emphasis on the treatment of artisanal materials, becoming an expert on what it comes to the field.
This brand has always been about excess, pointing out that there are ways to create that without being so excessive, a fun-filled escapism from the banality of everyday life. Tartan made in Scotland, made-to-measure fabric, visits to factories to guarantee the conditions of the workers, were among the measures of the designer approaching a fault-free future.
A collection about the designer's background, about her heritage, about being Black Caribbean.Saunders offers a fresh contemporary feel for tailored menswear, with designs that focus on the details.
A return to the London men's fashion calendar that stops by the designer's own house, making reference to her childhood in her latest collection. Relocating the public in the 70s from a booming London, where communities like the British-Jamaican one elevated her personal style, Wales Bonner pays tribute to the city's Afro-Caribbean community, recreating in her distinctive way, some of the most remarkable aesthetics of the time.
Raising the materials along with everything else, the designer wants people to see that she can be fresh, referring to the fact that recycling and reusing is part of her work practice. The pieces were strong and full of delicacy. Taking elements from her dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots, Priya explores the life of second hand and dead stock clothing, using textile techniques to give them new life.
Unleashing his fascination with futurism, the designer reflected that there are multiple versions of being in alternative universes and what makes no sense in one universe could be the gold standard of truth - in another. Pixelated looks tell a story about the many people who are captured by surveillance systems every day by governments like the Chinese.
The designer, inspired by a sunset from the mountains of Wuyi, presented a collection that went from darker cooler shades such as icy greys and blues giving way to brighter, warmer hues like fiery reds. Her designs were not only created on incredible silhouettes, but focus on sustainability, cresting a pleasant color palette with pigments made from herbal teas among other artisan techniques.
With the designer's signature colors as a recurring resource, Williams was inspired by her work with the British charity The Magpie Project, a grassroots organization that helps homeless mothers and children to create a colorful collection that celebrates motherhood, childhood, sisterhood and family, highlighting the importance of what she calls a "powerful bond". It is worth mentioning that as in her beginning, the designer's collection is created with an eco-friendly mentality.
With a sense of apocalyptic atmosphere, this edition of London Fashion Week also stands out as the first time that BFC has collaborated with the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) for a special activation.
With the dates of the fashion shows at the beginning of January of this season, it has been decided to celebrate the LFWM in other international territories with an important collaboration with Milan.
A-COLD-WALL* will be showing its A/W 2020 collection on the Italian catwalks alongside a selection of designers, both British and Italian, who share a special affiliation with London.
A partnership that presents an incredible opportunity to defend British business and showcase the brilliant talent that London has to offer and that will make Milan's Men's Fashion Week even more global.
London has always had a well-deserved reputation for showing unique talent and bold designs, and the new generation of Chinese designers is operating very well in this genre. Although it does not support many big names like other capitals, London creates more space for young designers to stand out.
After this promising start to the new year 2020, stay tuned and don't miss out on what awaits us in the coming fashion weeks.
The intriguing and intrepid Shanghai scenario moves within a system based on bureaucracy in which creativity is regulated by rules and habits far removed from the Western fashion system.
It is curious how a world that is super-connected and fast can be so slow in its progression. Ironic, isn't it?
BAN XIAOXUE SS20 - Shanghai Fashion Week
In 2001, the impact of fashion in other parts of the world finally took its toll on the Asian country, with the first Shanghai Fashion Week. Although the initiative seemed to be stalled in its early days, today it is like a tsunami wave that will invade closets, fashion calendars and social media before you know it. But today, Shanghai Fashion Week is like the one in Milan or Paris 25 years ago: unsophisticated and schematic.
We have to empathize with the country's socio-political situation, which plays a decisive role in bringing Shanghai closer to a world that is not part of its culture. Iconic European fashion, as a whole, is something that was born and developed over centuries, while the fashion week system evolved over mere decades, which is why most eyes are still looking today at the Italian and French DNA, which is still in the process of adaptation.
But if Shanghai, so advanced and futuristic, is as visionary in the development of its cities as it is in experimenting with new formulas that combine today's speed with the dreams of old school modern fashion, changing the format of presentations and economic models of business, it is very likely to achieve immense influence at the international level. Shanghai may have the necessary requirements to address the international fashion scene, mixing different cultures and habits.
Shuting Qiu SS20 — Shanghai Fashion Week (right) / JUNWEI LIN design (left)
In a flourishing system like China's, unexpected ideas can easily arise, but it is important that these concepts are not contaminated or forced by Western institutions, media or companies. By correcting the mistakes of an obsolete and slow developing system like the Western one, the red giant could thus create a starting point in the development of a new mentality and perhaps, turn the screws and position itself as an innovative leader from which we probably have something to learn.
For many years there has been a preconceived idea about design and fashion in China, associating its designs with low quality clothing, buying and wholesaling and imitation. However, the Chinese society has dedicated itself to spending and investing in fashion. The purchasing power of Chinese citizens has changed in recent years and the purchase of higher quality items has also shifted to the fashion sector, where originality, personalization and the search for unique and different garments are paramount.
Leaf Xia Studio SS20 — Shanghai Fashion Week
The luxury sector has exploded: no matter what the cost of the garment is, if it is quality and different, they pay the cost. The growing Chinese middle class is eager to express its individuality through fashion. Consumers are increasingly willing to opt for quality products - something they can afford thanks to the significant increase in income in recent years - and the younger generations seem better able to withstand economic uncertainties, as they have a higher income than the previous generation. This is positive for the industry, as the millennia now represent 380 million people in the country.
The millennials are also characterised by their great optimism: 35% of young people aged between 18 and 29 expect a continuous increase in their income. According to estimates by the Boston Consulting Group (BCG), urban consumption of millennials will increase to 2.6 billion dollars in 2021 (9% more than in 2011).
Ying Pei Studio Design
China retains its title as the fashion world’s most valuable player with its consumers taking care of a third of the world’s luxury market. Designers from all over the globe are heading to the East to be part of the spectacle and a new wave of Chinese designers has seen China grow into an increasingly influential design centre. We suspect that London, Paris, Milan and New York, known as the "Big Four", may be recruiting a fifth; Shanghai, which positions itself as the new, the technological, the development, "the new world" and now, the new dream of the fashion industry.
The prestige of Paris Fashion Week has never been more prominent. This season has seen an unusually high level of creativity, provocation, fun and fetishism, despite political unrest, environmental crisis and economic uncertainty.
Explore the whimsical side of fashion with this recap of moments you can't miss:
BALENCIAGA CREATES FASHION FOR THE 21ST CENTURY.
With a masterly staging, a casting with personality and variety and an even more unexpected and illuminating ending, Creative Director Gvasalia has reflected what he sees on the street and that includes social-media trends. What separates him from the common is that he wraps his designs in impossible and exaggerated forms that qualify him, in capital letters, as FASHION.
ISSEY MIYAKE'S NEW COURSE.
Satoshi Kondo - a close collaborator of Issey Miyake - debuted with his first collection following Yoshiyuki Miyamae. Body and movement are their DNA staples so they played with them, emphasizing the fluidity of the silhouette while still keeping the Miyake aesthetic solid.
“I wanted to express my feeling of joy, and I want this to become the trademark for my collections”
YOHJI YAMAMOTO HIDDEN MESSAGE.
The impossible construction seen on the catwalk of Yohji Yamamoto was a statement regarding the state of the environment: the cuts, slashes, and holes on the garments were an artistic way for him to convey a message about global warming.
Julius Juul and Victor Juul presented a virtual runway influenced by a high level of experimentalism and an exceptional quality that improves each season.
MAISON MARGIELA’S WINS THE MILLENNIAL WORLD WAR.
John Galliano - as Creative Director - elaborated the codes of the 40s with a perverse and digitalized twist. Assembling and disassembling the wardrobe staples from Tarantino-style “Inglourious Basterds” and the Second World War years.
RICK OWENS AZTEC ALIENS.
Rick Owens incredible capacity to create a dream from the most different of sources is unbelievable. Exploring his Mexican-ness with Aztec reminiscences, Owens elaborated pieces aim to mix traditions, such as the china poblana embroideries or the techno tunics with pointed shoulders that turned the models into alien priestesses of an unknown credo in which we all trust.
LANVIN. A FRESH PERSPECTIVE.
Bruno Sialelli’s - as new Creative Director - brought a refreshed elegance inspired and revisited by the 50s and 60s, giving a sense of jollity that we all need.
PACO RABANNE EXPLORES POP CULTURE.
Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne, explored the unexpected funny side of pop.
“I wanted to explore a part of this world I never went in. I took the French Seventies of Françoise Hardy, along with the movies of those days, and I turned it into a funny and colourful world.”
MCQUEEN RECONNECTS WITH THE ROOTS
The collection was almost all about linen. They went back to the old techniques so the production chain was simple and really sustainable, resulting in a dramatic romance followed by a beautiful and meaningful research related to fabrics and traditions.
“I felt the need to slow down and enjoy the little things, taking back the little beautiful moments that we are missing with the speed of our daily routine”
SAINT LAURENT KEEPS IT TRADITIONAL.
Under the Eiffel Tower, Saint Laurent proposed a stunning open air, all-black set up with dozens of whirling lights pointed to the sky. Anthony Vaccarello, Creative Director of the French Maison, is finally finding his own way delivering a beautiful collection (though a bit repetitive) full of Saint Laurent.
With his own aesthetic language, optical illusions accentuate the woman’ silhouettes and versatility as a means of individual expression, takes over.
LOEWE'S NEW TRADITION.
Jonathan Anderson has highlighted the different handcrafted excellences, at the same time that you have combined them to create a new tradition to show, injecting softly a Spanish touch without being too literal.
AFTER FEMINISM, DIOR GOES INTO SUSTAINABILITY.
At a time when the fashion industry is under more scrutiny than ever, Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri was wise to create a collection inspired by the natural world.
A very unique event where two talented and creative minds worked together to design one collection. It was very clear on the catwalk that the Dries Van Noten design was just as fully present as that of Monsieur Lacroix, not just a simple mixing of styles.
MARINE SERRE. THE APOCALYPSE IS ALREADY HERE.
Committed to sustainable production, Serre focused on up-cycling for her latest collection (she reuses second-hand clothes in her collections) and continued her exploration of a highly-protective wardrobe designed to resist any end-day scenario.
MUGLER'S SUPER SEDUCTIVE AND TWISTED GLAMOUR.
The Mugler collection by Casey Cadwallader was, above all, an analysis of the full spectrum and beauty of the body’s shapes, then of the clothing. All the sizes, genders, styles and ages showed off during the catwalk and set everyone free from their daily uniforms.
Inspired by the chaotic nature and beauty of meteor showers, Abloh presented its first women's collection in the fashion capital. Although he's a great sampler of ideas and visions, her collection lacked rational aesthetics. We do not live in the era of coherence, but a collection must be to deserve this name.
Olivier Rousteing stepped into the Sixties with a series of optical decorations. The young designer infused his touch in a very strong way, a skill which has become famous worldwide.
THE LOUIS VUITTON GIRL BRINGS A MODERN EDGE.
Nicolas Ghesquière imagined a modern Belle Époque that seemed to exist in an imaginary future, recreating a new high society related to the revolutionary years in which we are living, which celebrated the enthusiasm of each individual’s unique character.
LACOSTE GETS CARRIED AWAY.
With sporty yet sophisticated looks, Creative Director Louise Trotter pushed more towards mixing heritage and modernity.
SACAI. ONE NATION UNDER A GROOVE.
Abe is part of the second generation of Japanese designers that are taking their modern designs around the world. With a Funkadelic nostalgia, in his designs also came a message of unity and brotherhood as a reaction to the difficult world in which we are living.
CHANEL. “MARIE S’INFILTRE”.
Replacing Lagerfeld isn’t an easy job, but Virginie Viard is trying to inject a sense of freshness that was missing in the past. However, all eyes went to the comedian who crashed the runway at Paris Fashion Week and was kicked out by Gigi Hadid's.
HERMÊS REFUSE TO BECOME A SLAVE TO FASHION TRENDS.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski - the brand's Creative Director - presented an unexpected femininity that gave even more lightness to the collection. Fresh, sophisticated and artisanal.
VALENTINO'S FANTASY FORMULA.
Pierpaolo Piccioli pursues the extraordinary until it's trapped forever. The designer has a proven track record for making flounce and feathers seem less rarefied and more real.
GIVENCHY. ROMANCE VS TOUGHNESS.
As a mentality to design this collection, Clare Waight Keller, consolidated that empowerment is not only revealing, jumping back and forth from the bourgeoisie to the masculine.
COMMES DES GARÇONS TURNS STAGE COSTUMES INTO BREATHTAKING DESIGNS.
From Elizabethan era to the future. Kawakubo-san presented a groundbreaking clothing set with unexpected and over-decorated silhouettes, reinventing and turning upside down shapes and proportions.
OTTOLINGER DRESSES THE MILLENNIAL WOMEN.
Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient presented a collection any millennial woman wouldn’t mind being caught in.
One of the most awaited stops along this busy journey around the most cosmopolitan and stylish cities in the world: Milan. Here is a summary of the highlights of September's SS20 season:
Picasso's works parade in Milan to the rhythm of Rosalía: Moschino brings out his most artistic and Spanish side, reminding us that fashion is a work of art. Better watch.
VERSACE AND HER RENEWED NEONOSTALGIA
The most restrained - but cool - collection of the immortal Italian brand, which gave us the most viral momento of the Milan Fashion Week of this season: the appearance of Jennifer Lopez wearing her iconic dress from the 2000 Grammy red carpet, from which Donatella was inspired to create the collection.
GUCCI BRINGS MILAN FASHION WEEK TO A CLIMAX.
Designer Alessandro Michele revolutionizes the Italian catwalk with a collection that reflects on elegance and sex. Gucci turned the catwalk into a hospital. The first part, with only white outputs, was far from the usual sophistication that characterizes the firm, but in the second part, Alessandro Michele made it again with looks loaded with style and elegance.
Another highlight of Gucci's show was the personal protest of one of the models who showed written in her hands: "mental health is not fashion".
BOTTEGA VENETA HAS BECOME CONTEMPORARY.
It's hard to get the first one right, but Daniel Lee's - as the new Creative Director of the brand - managed to get the audience on their feet. The artist kept the firm's heritage alive, but turning towards more minimalist and clean finishes.
FENDI BETS ON RETRO LOOKS.
Inspired by the blissful feeling most associated with the long summer days and afternoons spent in the sun, the presentation of the remarkable brand has been conquered by the styles where the jackets, coats and trench with geometrical prints occupied most of the outings.
THE ELEGANCE OF THE 1940S SHOWS OFF IN THE CATWALK WITH PRADA.
Simple but sophisticated, that's what the Prada spring-summer 2020 collection has been like. Miucca Prada is beyond trends and has set its sights on elegant 40's, on a sober and fluid silhouette that conceals women's curves.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Inspired by a tropical paradise, Dolce & Gabbana presented a collection full of prints where the leopard and the tiger have taken control (did anyone doubt it?). One more season, the Italian duo launched a collection similar to the previous one but renewing its chromatic palette.
MSGM 10-YEAR ANNIVERSARY
One of Massimo Giorgetti’s best collections. Bright, photogenic and upbeat. MSGM’s came in vivid neon and cat-nipped anyone looking to add insta-pop to their look. The designer undoubtedly managed to illuminate the world.
MISSONI. EL BAGNI MISTERIOSI.
This collection was as good as Missoni gets. The models reemerged carrying Little Sun portable solar-powered lamps by Olafur Eliasson as a manifestation for climate action. As usual, the ingenious and amazing combination of colors were exemplary.
SUSTAINABILITY IS THE EPICENTRE OF MARNI'S PROPOSAL.
Francesco Risso always starts from abstract concepts to create all his collections, and this time it has not been different. Asymmetries and asymmetries were prodigaban in sets made with reused leather and organic cotton.
Exploring a more everyday, utilitarian look, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos - that decamped to Milan this season, swapping their usual London location for a deep dive into the Milanese fashion zeitgeist - presented a gender-neutral collection energized by lysergic colors and symbolist-inspired, smudged-floral prints.
Three blond icons were in charge of opening the Max Mara show. Gigi Hadid, Candice Swanepoel and Doutzen Kroes, who were wrapped in three versions of gray tailors for all tastes. Ian Griffiths once again resorts to sobriety, perhaps more than ever.
The GCDS collection was a nod to manga cosplayers, otaku and gamer culture. The Italian designer follows the same line, doing whatever he wants. Because in this world there is room for any idea and any type of expressive manifestation.
Stay posted and don't miss what's waiting for us in Paris, next stop on the Fashion Week calendar.
Although all expectations were directed towards a dark and pessimistic show due to the current socio-political situation of the country that has established Brexit, the catwalks were manifested with trends that sparked joy rather than sense and gargantuan gowns. This season London Fashion Week, with a focus on sustainability, showcased a heady mix of schedule regulars ,breadth of exciting new and emerging talent alongside established favourites. Here, a recap of what you can't miss:
For the first time, London Fashion Week host public-facing catwalk shows from A-COLD-WALL, AlexaChung, House of Holland and Self-Portrait. Fashion fans could purchased tickets at 135 pounds and Front Row tickets at 245 pounds to the immersive fashion experience.
EXTINCTION REBELLION, ENOUGH IS ENOUGH
The future is quality not quantity and less is more sustainable.The activist group tapped into fashion week’s conscience. Manifesting in the street during London Fashion, they prompted us all to reconsider how and why we consume clothing – and at what expense.
Vivienne Westwood, Asai, Shrimps and Ashley Williams didn't feature on the schedule. Peter Pilotto moved his show to Milan. Mary Katrantzou headed to Athens and Grace Wales Bonner opted for private appointments.
INTRUDERS IN WOMEN'S CLOTHING
Are the genres in fashion becoming unified? Designers like Samuel Ross, Craig Green and Bobby Able - who are mainly dedicated to men's clothing design - were integrated into the women's fashion week parade for greater visibility
Fashion for Relief is a personal charity set up by Naomi Campbell, which is dedicated to fighting poverty, sickness and distress. The all-time supermodel brought her charity runway show back to her hometown to raise money towards disadvantaged communities in London.
For the very first time, the United Nations brought the 17 Sustainable Development Goals, also known as The Global Goals to London Fashion Week. A universal route map and call to action to end poverty, protect the planet and ensure that every global citizen enjoys peace and prosperity by 2030.
In addition, Pause Conscious, the global movement that showcases sustainable fashion around the world, came to London for its ninth edition. The pop-up featured 80 sustainable designers and combined shopping with art, live performances, music, and educational experiences.
THE POST BOX MAZE BY ANYA HINDMARCH
To celebrate London Fashion Week, and the launch of its Postbox bag, Anya Hindmarch built an immersive art installation inspired by M. C. Escher’s mural, designed for The Hague Post Office.
“FITTING ROOMS” by IKEA and Virgil Abloh
IKEA unveiled the first look of the new MARKERAD collection with Virgil Abloh, with an interactive pop up open to the public, seeking to get people statement-dressing their homes just as they do with their clothes.
BOBBY ABLE (DEBUT)
Next stop? Paris Fashion Week from 23rd of September. Keep posted!
New York Fashion Week marks the beginning of a month-long sartorial spectacle as designers showcase their latest creations to the world.
While Milan is renowned for its extravagance and London for its emerging talents, New York is known for its progressive social consciousness, often leading the way in terms of body positivity, diversity and powerful political statements. Here, we rounded up highlights from New York Fashion Week Spring 2020:
AVANT-GARDE TO POWER
VFILES exhibited its eleventh show, which featured young talents, musical performances and a front row full of celebrities. Among the creatives, CSM graduate Pierrre-Louis Auvray stood out. The designer earned a spot in the VFILES parade along with Londoner Wesley Harriott and amberinos Di Du and Nico Verhaegen.
This season's calendar was full of Brooklyn locations and non-traditional formats reigned supreme. Gauntlett Cheng and Maryam Nassir Zadeh set their shows outdoors. Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada also set up her show on the street, creating a farmer’s market and inviting guests to take the produce to emphasize her commitment to sustainability.
“This show is my continuing attempt at reconciling the desire we all have to create and consume with the responsibility we all share to be conscious and ethical. I’m doing my best to use my platform to communicate urgent messages with positivity and honesty.”
GREATER DIVERSITY AND INCLUSION
Luxury junior label Lulu et Gigi attracted extra attention for sending nine-year-old double amputee Daisy-May Demetre down the runway. The up-and-coming model, who had both her legs amputated as a baby, is due to appear at Paris Fashion Week later this month.
THE MOST POLITICAL MOMENT OF NYFW
Prabal Gurung’s runway and his collection featuring elements of Americana, the country’s floral emblem red roses and classic blue denim. It culminated in every model being sent down the runway wearing a pageant-style sash with the words, “Who gets to be American?”
GETTING CLOSER TO SUSTAINABILITY
Hairdryers and hot tools were banned by Gabriela Hearst’s as the designer attempted to stage NYFW’s first carbon-neutral show.
Maria Cornejom utilized upcycled textiles and leathers from car interiors in collaboration with Hyundai. The result was a very wearable set of casual dresses and trouser suits dubbed “ReStyle.”
FAVORED SHOW: MARC JACOBS
Fashion favorite Marc Jacobs closed the week with an eclectic show that celebrated life thorough vivid prints, florals and high-volume shapes. A brilliant show with airs of joy, equality, individuality, optimism, happiness, indulgence, dreams and a future unwritten.
The next stop on this year’s fashion week calendar? London from Friday, Sept. 13. Stay tuned!
Sustainability has become the main topic of conversation in the fashion world. Today, almost 10 years after Christopher Raeburn began producing his first garments from recycled materials when hardly anyone was going in that direction, Raeburn is considered a visionary and one of the industry's most promising designers.
His goal, first and foremost, is to raise awareness among consumers, make durable quality garments and try to save the planet through greater transparency in the textile industry. A complicated challenge that is undoubtedly worth fighting for.
Christopher Raeburn grew up in rural Kent on the outskirts of London. There, he played with his father and siblings to collect used items, deconstruct them and over the weekend, rebuild them. A game that years later would become a legacy for the fashion world.
From the age of eleven, Christopher Raeburn - together with his brothers - joined Air Cadet, the junior division of the Royal Air Force. Because of this experience, he developed a fascination for military garments and original functional fabrics.
Fascinated by military materials, utilitarian clothing and essential functionality, Christopher Raeburn decided to join the Royal College of Art in London. There he found something very exciting in going out to look for original objects and then turning them into something new - as he used to do in his childhood - which led him organically to the ethos of his brand: RÆMADE, RÆDUCED, RÆCYCLED and RÆBURN. A spirit and a philosophy to which he remains faithful by channeling his deconstructed garments into pioneering collections that have marked the designer as a true leader in the fashion scene.
Raeburn graduated from the Royal College of Art in London in 2006 with a reconstructed line of reversible military garments entitled "Inverted". After that, he set up his studio in some old Burberry installations in the heart of an old industrial district of East London. To this day, every RÆBURN piece is a limited edition, proudly cut and reconstructed in England.
Rather than contributing to this "endless waste" of materials he denounces, Christopher Raeburn prefers to "remake" and give new life to discarded objects. From protective immersion suits to create women's and men's coats to a rubber boat that ended up transforming into jackets and bags.
He finds his raw materials by tracking the Internet, in flea markets, abroad, making military surpluses or activating contacts he prefers to keep secret.
RÆBURN's business model presents obstacles, because it is difficult to maintain the high competitive pace in this sector by resorting to waste materials, but is not something that discourages him, in fact, quite the opposite.
"Every day is a challenge, but that's the exciting thing, who wants to lead a boring life?"
In 2013 Raeburn not only won the "Designer Business of the Year" at the UK Fashion and Textiles Awards - among many others throughout his career - but also initiated two important collaborations with Rapha and Fred Perry and ended the year being appointed Artistic Director of Victorinox Fashion, as a result of previous collaborations.
Five years later, after numerous excellent collections showcased all around the globe that featured collaborations with Moncler, Barbour, North Face and even Disney - among others - the US brand Timberland announced the appointment of Christopher Raeburn as their first Global Creative Director.
Christopher Raeburn is not only considered the single most radical designer working today, also a leader in the race for sustainability.
The recycling of materials and the use of green technologies is fundamental to the production process. RÆBURN takes into account the impact on the environment, whether recycling materials, minimizing the carbon footprint through local manufacturing or producing smaller batches to reduce waste.
RÆBURN has become a world-renowned and acclaimed firm whose design is characterized by being innovative, responsible, creative, collaborative and sustainable.
Making strong and sustainable decisions that provide us with a completely unique and desirable product - which we personally love - Christopher Raeburn's initiatives inspire young designers to consider their approach to design and serve as a guide and example to all those who want to do things better. Thanks to Christopher Raeburn's contribution, it's clear that even in difficult times, creativity shines through.
Have you ever been in a store to buy a thing and all you had was just that, things to buy? Go in, get it and leave? Well, that kind of transaction is not enough for some brands, especially the big ones, that want you to have a complete and unforgettable experience while you are in the store. Maybe have a beer and draw a picture, watch a DJ do a set, skate on a skating rink.
Is it a coincidence that experimental stores are developing and expanding at a time when traditional retail is dying and online shopping is easier and more popular than ever? We don't think so.
The creativity surrounding the creation of experimental stores is creating a community space where people congregate, where people will socialize, adding extra value to any possible purchase.
We will not mention one after another the advantages and disadvantages of online shopping and the traditional way of buying. We want to give a twist to a futuristic and at the same time current theme that, without a doubt, covers many of the dilemmas of our time. As if the abundant use of new technologies will bring us closer to a transcendent evolution or will keep us away from humanity.
The aspect of online shopping was an interesting pendulum swing, especially when in 2017 and 2018 commercial spaces were dying, people were closing stores, companies were going into bankruptcy. The continuing "apocalypse of retailing" forced all those in the retail business to question the value of their physical stores.
Nike and Adidas - among many others - are some of the great players of sneakers and sportswear producers leading the way in experience-focused retail. Late last year, Nike opened a new giant store in New York that features an indoor mini basketball court, a treadmill in front of monitors that simulate races in amazing places around the world and a small soccer field.
The social aspect of shopping has to be taken into account. People crave human interaction and, as the world becomes more digital, sometimes that need for advice, confidence in decision making and romanticism in the shopping experience are invaluable and not even the most complete online retailer will be able to overcome that.
The brand is no longer just reflected in the product, but the store where it can be found. The physical environment provides added value. Stores serve as showrooms that drive customers to buy online. They serve as fulfillment points for e-commerce operations. Stores are billboards for any fashion brand.
Some ideas follow the trend that physical stores will be logistics centers for online business, but the future is difficult to predict. Perhaps the most likely scenario is a combination of both worlds. The concept of shopping has changed and while technology will mark the evolution of shopping in commerce over the next few years, physical stores will also evolve by providing a closer, warmer type of service focused on the customer experience.
The race is to design the store of the future, with brands investing in innovation labs and launching bold and fantastic retail experiments in their quest for identity in the age of e-commerce.
Growing up in Neo-Tokyo as the land of the future - which exists in the consciousness of entire generations who saw Akira, Blade Runner and Mad Max - Tatsuro Horikawa is an artist shrouded in mystery.
Music, art, sound, atmosphere, travel and emotion are the basis of his main inspirations. For him, the greatest of them is music, especially techno and industrial music, a movement that plays an important and essential role in his creative process, notion of madness and sorrow.
His project, JULIUS - focused not only on fashion but also on audiovisual art - continues to evolve as an enveloping and hypnotic song. Its patterns change slowly while its atmosphere remains consistent and unique, being today, the most important gothic brand in Tokyo.
Born in Kyushu - an isolated island in southwestern Japan - in the early 1970s, Horikawa emigrated to Tokyo at an early age, where he quickly grew up to embrace "pop feeling," courtesy of clandestine movements.
In 1996, Horikawa launched his first label, NUKE, a project that would later develop into an impeccable and successful fashion brand. At this point in his life, Horikawa was dressed exclusively in black. In love with both the simplicity and the inherent complexity that color conveys, he began to develop his own style. An ode to mysticism with a palette of dark colors - where black predominates - masterful finishes, leather abundance and exaggerated lengths.
“Black symbolizes the Avant-Garde and has a deeply spiritual and noble meaning for me. I am obsessed with the image of “Black” in Japanese Religion, in Zen. It represents the crazy darkness hidden in the shadows away from the light. It is the total colour of complete and utter grief.”
NUKE was not only a clothing brand, but it was also an artistic movement. Over its six-year lifespan, NUKE has become an incredibly influential entity among the Japanese underground art community.
In 2001, satisfied with what NUKE had provided, Horikawa launched the first iteration of JULIUS, starting as a collaborative art project to present audio/video presentations for collections and art shows, with which Horikawa elevated his clothing to the forefront of Gothic fashion through luxurious materials and careful finishes.
JULIUS quickly attracted attention for its dark, post-apocalyptic designs. After establishing a presence in Japan, the brand expanded abroad and in 2008 showcased a catwalk as part of Paris Fashion Week.
JULIUS expanded beyond Neo-Tokyo to an international audience, and a cult quickly grew following the entire world. However, Horikawa did not let the new success change his design philosophy; instead, he ignored the outside influence, remaining true to his techno-neo-Tokio aesthetics.
Combining meticulous construction with destroyed aesthetics, Horikawa designs are a declaration of perfection. His garments - simply designed with a surprising level of structure and composition - are regularly composed of torn knees, exaggerated internal seams and hanging threads, giving an appearance of brilliantly executed imperfection.
At the same time, this decadence features a clean, minimalist look, inspired by the industrial, which has much to do with the aesthetics of the music scene the designer contemplated in Berlin, an infinite source of inspiration for him.
"Perfection is ugly. Somewhere in the things that humans do, I want to see scars, failures, disorders, distortions.
To keep inspiration alive, Horikawa believes it is necessary to be permeated - not influenced - by new trends and artistic forms that keep his vision nurtured and alive. One way to achieve this is through collaborations, something to which the designer attaches great importance and which has led him to work with artists, musicians and record labels to create visceral catwalk experiences and presentations, encompassing numerous art streams that have broadened his creative sources.
Horikawa's distant travels have also been a driving force behind his work. Inherently nomadic, the designer embraces tribes and shamans from all over the world, embodying their emotion and dress in his collections, where he combines different elements that initially may seem extravagant, managing to find a chord between the chaotic and the beautiful.
With twenty years of experience in the fashion industry, Horikawa remains relatively hidden from public view. Rather, the designer emphasizes that his team is as important in the design of JULIUS clothing as he is.
Horikawa is committed to maintaining his vision, unwavering in the face of commercial influence and mainstream. His goal is not only to create "clothing", but rather to create and contribute to a person's entire lifestyle and existence.
As something sacred and profane, Horikawa's world of imagination is worn and broken, chaotic and corrupt and the purity and destruction of his designs result in an exceptional and singular beauty that has crossed - to the joy of fashion - the farthest horizons, becoming an inspiring and powerful soul capable of enveloping and transporting not only the gothic-post-punk fashionistas of black urban clothing styles, but also any lover of neo-conceptual art to unrepeatably magical and ancestral worlds.