Sankuanz boasts an individual and teasing approach to fashion that has got a cult-like following in China and overseas. The mind behind the brand is 29-year-old fashion designer Shangguan Zhe, who graduated from Xiamen University in 2007—majoring in Visual Communication and Advertising. Zhe, unlike his job-hunting peers, instantaneously started his own menswear label and let his brand develop. Sankuanz's captivating and eccentric style made Zhe a sort of peculiar infant appalling in the Chinese mainstream and vanilla fashion scene - he has been honoured by many critics as one of the most original young talents in the industry.
This season sees the Chinese brand portraying inspiration from the co-mingling social “uniforms” perceived on the streets of Mexico, merging day-to-day functionality with a contemporary feel and continues the protective theme “Kill the Wall” that plaited through the touring urban collection, enthused by cold weapons. The collection uses a lot of metal details, together with uniform-inspired styles as the designer wanted to create a cool and stoic killer image as well as a sophisticated, industrial touch. Shangguan Zhe strengthened the tailoring motion this season, with an emphasis on strong boxy volumes. Even having a bid focus on the tailoring this season, Zhe chooses to use relaxed silhouettes where sportswear continues to dominate.
As figures walked into the industrial space, one couldn’t think of anything else but compare them to an army of models. Protective military vests were complemented with chain mail armour and a repetitive hood that created a sense of standardisation amongst the men. Once again there was an essence of camouflage, this time coated in amongst entirely opposing elements such as purple track pants. A well-known collaboration with puma offered an underlying sports touch to this collection with bright colours and PVC fabrics that propelled any overworked military elements into a renewed original plot. As models drilled to the beats of the deafening track it seemed a new explanation of masculinity was being shaped out.
The ultimate result is a well-balanced collection in its unconventionality where every piece and element, peculiar or classical, finds its proper place and highpoints the other.