LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN'S AW20 BULLETIN
London is the base for new talent and, as such, it can go unnoticed if one judges the early initiation of young designers in a world as competitive as that of fashion, thus often underestimating that really good talent.
Without losing sight of the novelties offered by some of the city's most outstanding fashion creators and the influence of the rise of Asian students in the capital, we bring you a compilation of our favorite moments from this 15th edition, where oriental aesthetics converge with the European style.
Inspired by the Korean War and the extreme moments that occurred during it, Munn combines with beauty, heart and sensitivity an emotional feat composed of pieces that maintain just the right balance towards sustainability. He incorporated ties and scarves made of leftover cloth; bags made of old tires and recycled denim to create some of his pieces, giving it, of course, a Korean oriental touch, retaining the brand’s distinctive elegance.
Balenciaga’s former men’s clothing student, Martine Rose has always been the most conventionally characteristic character of the London men’s fashion calendar. However, her latest collection is a continuation of what we have come to expect from her so far. Informal, but refined and demure, retaining an avant-garde style, the designer at this point may need to develop something extra. A little less informal, a little more risk.
Fun and polished, Nicholas Daley’s style at the time of design is solidifying and becoming instantly recognizable, which already only that feat accomplished in a few seasons, is worth highlighting in a place where similar aesthetics abound. He continuously explores its dual ethnic heritage, of Jamaican and Scottish descent: questioning widely and reflecting the notion of multiculturalism within British identity.
Between history and futurism, managed in a more classical way, Pronounce kept the focus on a range of spectacular outerwear. Making use of ingenious applications in terms of proportion and detail, Yushan Li and Jun Zhou created sublime pieces covered in lush prints.
The rising star Yi-Ling Kuo of 1x1 presented a collection that spliced the subversive fetish with cozy comfort and avoided. The layers concealed the harnesses of the gladiators, slavery jackets were displayed next to gleaming metallic fabrics and there was a great inspiration in sadomasochistic fetishism from what we could observe in the details of his creations.
Exploring global cultural references and aspects of material culture, Crutchley is to this point, an expert creating garments that explore the limits of shape, silhouette and surface, with special emphasis on the treatment of artisanal materials, becoming an expert on what it comes to the field.
This brand has always been about excess, pointing out that there are ways to create that without being so excessive, a fun-filled escapism from the banality of everyday life. Tartan made in Scotland, made-to-measure fabric, visits to factories to guarantee the conditions of the workers, were among the measures of the designer approaching a fault-free future.
A collection about the designer's background, about her heritage, about being Black Caribbean.Saunders offers a fresh contemporary feel for tailored menswear, with designs that focus on the details.
A return to the London men's fashion calendar that stops by the designer's own house, making reference to her childhood in her latest collection. Relocating the public in the 70s from a booming London, where communities like the British-Jamaican one elevated her personal style, Wales Bonner pays tribute to the city's Afro-Caribbean community, recreating in her distinctive way, some of the most remarkable aesthetics of the time.
Raising the materials along with everything else, the designer wants people to see that she can be fresh, referring to the fact that recycling and reusing is part of her work practice. The pieces were strong and full of delicacy. Taking elements from her dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots, Priya explores the life of second hand and dead stock clothing, using textile techniques to give them new life.
Unleashing his fascination with futurism, the designer reflected that there are multiple versions of being in alternative universes and what makes no sense in one universe could be the gold standard of truth - in another. Pixelated looks tell a story about the many people who are captured by surveillance systems every day by governments like the Chinese.
The designer, inspired by a sunset from the mountains of Wuyi, presented a collection that went from darker cooler shades such as icy greys and blues giving way to brighter, warmer hues like fiery reds. Her designs were not only created on incredible silhouettes, but focus on sustainability, cresting a pleasant color palette with pigments made from herbal teas among other artisan techniques.
With the designer's signature colors as a recurring resource, Williams was inspired by her work with the British charity The Magpie Project, a grassroots organization that helps homeless mothers and children to create a colorful collection that celebrates motherhood, childhood, sisterhood and family, highlighting the importance of what she calls a "powerful bond". It is worth mentioning that as in her beginning, the designer's collection is created with an eco-friendly mentality.
With a sense of apocalyptic atmosphere, this edition of London Fashion Week also stands out as the first time that BFC has collaborated with the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) for a special activation.
With the dates of the fashion shows at the beginning of January of this season, it has been decided to celebrate the LFWM in other international territories with an important collaboration with Milan.
A-COLD-WALL* will be showing its A/W 2020 collection on the Italian catwalks alongside a selection of designers, both British and Italian, who share a special affiliation with London.
A partnership that presents an incredible opportunity to defend British business and showcase the brilliant talent that London has to offer and that will make Milan's Men's Fashion Week even more global.
London has always had a well-deserved reputation for showing unique talent and bold designs, and the new generation of Chinese designers is operating very well in this genre. Although it does not support many big names like other capitals, London creates more space for young designers to stand out.
After this promising start to the new year 2020, stay tuned and don't miss out on what awaits us in the coming fashion weeks.