MILAN MEN'S FASHION WEEK 2020 BULLETIN
The encounter between tailoring and sportswear, how to capture the attention of the young generation of consumers, what the new masculinity is like, sustainability and how the world will evolve in the coming decades shaped this Italian autumn and winter season.
Dazzled by the quality of the fabrics and the tailoring technique appreciated by both young and timeless talents, here you'll find a selection of our favorite shows;
Tailoring and reflective fabrics elevated the brand’s signature sportswear aesthetic. Japanese designer Hiroyuki Fujita injected sartorial elements into its signature retro-athletic aesthetic.
MARCO DE VINCENZO
He balances the excesses of his women’s collections with his distinctive touch of delicacy, motivated by the challenge of evolving men’s fashion which, based on fashion history, has far more taboos and limits than women’s fashion, infusing his flair for Italian cultural references with fine tailoring and hints of sportswear.
Eye-catching prints, asymmetric shapes and different fabrics created a striking and attractive effect on Marni's fall winter collection. Though a bit out of tune with the outside world, we like the idea of man's incomprehension defined by Marni.
Neil Barrett continued his fascination with the evolution of the masculine dress by reinforcing this contrast between elegance and activewear and creating a conversation between the handmade and the industrial.
DOLCE AND GABANNA
Now that the public is increasingly informed and demands more honesty and transparency from each garment and each brand, Dolce & Gabbana's coup de grace is also a strategic move where the fabric defends itself. In this collection, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana renounced cosmopolitanism and the shocking prints they usually practice by offering mind-blowing materials.
Playing with dimension and geometries, PRADA is inspired by the basis of the classic - which refers to everything that lasts and has a meaning - but directed towards a modern young man who loves to be adequate in a contemporary way.
The British sportswear brand A-Cold-Wall was the guest designer at this year's Men's Fashion Week, thanks to the collaboration between Camera Moda and the British Fashion Council. For the first time, Samuel Ross introduces tailoring, giving the brand a maturity it lacked before, leading a generation of new craftsmen and intellectuals.
Knowledge about how to work with textiles and constructions makes the difference for Giorgio Armani. The designer aims with its exceptional endings, to push the younger generation to understand the meaning of craftsmanship and materials, with the intention of improving the environment and making minds aware of what to buy by valuing it as an investment.
Independence and individuality. Two words that describe the appearance of Magliano on the Milanese catwalks where most firms keep traditional masculinity at bay with little touches of experimentation. A refreshing contribution to the show that, despite not being in line with what's expected from Milan during fashion week, creates a balance between the conventional and the extravagant in a distinctive way.
Form and function were magnificently combined in this Missoni collection, easily recognizable by its distinctive pattern and color scheme. The brand was inspired by the avant-garde shade under which the funky vibrations of the seventies and eighties danced in the jazz clubs.
As a counter-attack to the streetwear craze, Fendi has re-evaluated his identity and decided to take a different path, conceiving a very consistent concept for the proposal that became the collection every man wants. Everything you've ever had hanging in your closet has been brought back by Fendi like wool suits, sherpa jackets, coats, puffer jackets and lots of leather.
Gucci rescues romance from one of life’s most beautiful stages, childhood. This season, Alessandro Michele and his team have analyzed the patriarchal mentality under which children are raised, which generates an oppressive virility that, as a consequence, feeds sexism and abuse, not only against women but in general, saying that today’s values are a bit old-fashioned.
His suggestion is to restore our attitudes by returning to childhood, rediscovering and maintaining the innocence of the virgin mind of a baby. Alessandro Michele always gives meaning to his shows and projects, but this season the statement was notably strong.
Imagine a civilization in which men and women deliberately share their garments. This would be the exaggerated recreation of the mixed collection of Miaoran where there is a subliminal and poetic message that challenges gender norms for dressing the postmodern individual.
After a gloomy period during the past year, Sunnei designers were highly influenced by this tension, presenting a playful aesthetic that gave way to a more mature collection that kept the brand's codes in tune with a more real man and woman.
This season we have seen a new facet of MSGM that is evolving after ten years. In the form of an introspection of the designer's dark side, together with film director Dario Argento, who specializes in horror films, the collection - maintaining an optimistic energy despite the scary winks - is inspired by the artist's masterpieces.
Everything in this collection screams iconic. The glasses and the mulle along with elegant and colorful satin suits, add a touch of partying to this season. Tom Ford - the man and the brand - has never bothered to play it safe and rightly so, when he produces clothes as stunning as these.
Inspired by landscapes of northern Britain, art nouveau and craftsmanship, McQueen offers something that is sometimes earthy and elemental, sometimes the ultimate in refinement. Inspired by the textures of the earth, McQueen points to the brave man of honour, versed in his appreciation of nature and his affinity for sober elegance. Exceptional.
Stay posted to keep an eye on the trends and currents that the fashion world is going through in this new decade and don't miss out on any of the essentials. See you in Paris!