PARIS MEN'S FASHION WEEK 2020 BULLETIN
This season is presented as the indicator of stability for the men's fashion sector. Compared to other fashion capitals where mixed-gender catwalk shows are held during the women's season, the growing number of men's fashion shows and presentations in Paris has demonstrated the growth of this area that is so feared and hidden under hundreds of taboos and edges that are unbelievable for the conventionality of our society. Men's clothing has a bright future ahead of it and here, you will find a selection of the most outstanding proposals of this edition;
Craig Green presents his first collection in the French capital, leaving his hometown of London behind, increasing his popularity and reputation. The new location made it maintain its characteristic codes: the construction of panels, the modelling method with laces and the technological fabrics, establishing itself as an extremely recognisable brand.
Comme Des Garçons resulted in an explosion of imagination executed successfully. The Japanese brand presented a collection that in inexperienced hands would have been a disaster, since the combination not only of colors but also of prints was overwhelming, but nonetheless, in some way that we are still trying to understand, it made sense.
Y/Project presents a mixed collection where the classics of men's clothing have been literally twisted, maintaining their essence but involving in their form. A hallmark of the brand, which always likes to do things in its own peculiar way.
Givenchy was inspired by the sensory experience that Clare Waight Keller, Creative Director at Givenchy, had on a journey filled with dreamy villas and castles. A collection based on the combination of colors and ideas that emerged after reviewing the archives of the 50's, reshaping silhouettes of the past while remaining in that fresh and imaginative state worthy of princes and princesses, delivered a collection that brings nature back to human life.
Acne Studios tries to understand how time can be divided into past and future, to understand the present. Unexpected layers and silhouettes abounded on the catwalk. Their clothes reminded of Star Wars costumes, one of the most desirable visions of the future for most people.
Alyx reflects on the order of things or the whole universe as the result of the combined action of two opposite and irreducible principles such as the real and the unreal, what has to do versus what has gone. It presents a vision of the world in which what is part of our imagination is mixed with what exists.
Reese Cooper it is officially put on the map after its appearance on the Parisian scene. Turning outdoor clothing into a garment with a daily charm that, in turn, contains a high finish with several details that not only demonstrate technique but also vision, Cooper, with only 22 years, wants to turn the tendencies that teenagers especially follow, like technical and utilitarian clothing, into something more formal.
JW Anderson explores the feminine side of men, a fairly recurrent idea around this time of year when designers ponder why men's clothes differ so much from women's, where they are experienced above the ordinary on extra-spherical levels no matter what they say, just as they are not usually done in men's fashion. Anderson's suits had to do with the fluidity of the gender, with a man who carries out his feminine side with confidence.
Raf Simons deviates from the path of youthful conviction, that in which brands break their heads to understand the current buyer and capture him in some way, and addresses a more mature audience, targeting its collection to an older man, in tune with the designer's own generation.
Undercover surprisingly investigated Japanese aesthetics this time.The designer decided to go back to his Japanese roots narrating medieval Japan and inspired by the 1957 Akira Kurosawa movie "The Throne of Blood", he translated the costumes of that era in today's garments.
Louis Vuitton introduces an end to the conquest of streetwear by presenting a notable decline in oversized and athletic silhouettes and oversized sneakers. Virgil Abloh's latest collection for Louis Vuitton consisted of various suits structures that were divided up as the show progressed, representing a more formal change that is about to be implemented in youth clothing.
Dior claims that men's fashion can no longer be considered a sideline of the luxury industry - and could even become a key growth engine. The staging and tailoring of the pieces was a demonstration of power and a wake-up call for those disinterested in men's fashion.
Études has made a name for itself intelligently anticipating trends, creating unpretentious and super-coveted collections. This season we are facing the return of the tailor's shop infused by the brand's own characteristic and identity.
Hermes made a particularly refined statement with a collection characterized by a new modernity. The brand evolves by following precise rules skillfully codified by Artistic Director Véronique Nichanian. The collection offers a series of timeless items that are modern and vintage at the same time.
Palomo Spain reconnected with the Catholic heritage of his native Spain. With garments that seem to be straight out of a Spanish Golden Age painting, the designer explores the concept of ecstasy, both in the spiritual and the earthly aspect.
Ludovic De Saint Sernin trademark is gender fluidity and once again, his collection ooze androgynous sexuality. A recent disappointment inspired De Saint Sernin to delve into feelings of fragility and empowerment.
Loewe brings optimism and joy, allowing himself and the audience to enjoy life, and in this case, the clothes, as they are, without any cloak, as if seen through the eyes of a child, composed under the rules of a youthful game where opposing issues such as curved and straight lines and beautiful combinations and juxtapositions were the leitmotif.
Sacai continues to tirelessly explore the idea of doing things in a new way. In this case, he managed to turn the rigidity of the military uniform into a mere decoration by applying the softness of leisure and sportswear. A further step that adds a new chapter to his constant quest to expand the spectrum of combinations.
Lanvin dropped a nautical breeze from the distant seas over Paris. Corto Maltés, the adventurous sailor of cartoon artist Hugo Pratt, was the inspiration for this collection, in which clear references to the character can be appreciated.
Jacquemus established communication between men and women who spoke a completely different language, as if it were a game of flirtation between the two genders. There was a great disjunction between the styles where the woman emanated an aesthetic purity unlike the man, which bordered on tacky and informal luxury with details like unbuttoned pants and wide silhouettes.
Valentino permeates the atmosphere of an overwhelming romanticism emphasized by the serene and sweet voice of FKA Twigs, who performed during the show. Stiff and structured, the garments that were shown at the catwalk expressed by fluid lines was mixed with a distinct design.
Issey Miyake collaborates again with choreographer Daniel Ezralow, bringing the audience back to Japanese movies and anime from the mid-nineties like Cowboy Bepop, with musicians and artists moving in a very cheerful mood, following the new direction that the designer decided for his brand.
Yohji Yamamoto emphasizes with a palette of dark and monochrome colors the pattern and fabrics of luxurious texture of their designs. Delivering vibrant interlocking pieces with Japanese calligraphy prints to the catwalk: the designer undoubtedly raised the appeal of his brand.
Rick Owens focuses on all the mess in the world today, with the intention of simplifying things and making them more elegant. The designer presented a collection with the extravagant and impressive forms that are part of his empire of inspiration, which left the audience static.
Stay posted to find out how the beloved world of fashion evolves and don't miss what's on!